Apollo is the highest evolution of the PET Pressure Fermenters and unitanks available in the world. Our PET tanks are the strongest in the world thanks to our patented Australian Made manufacturing process that ensures every single tank is individually pressure tested before sale. The handles on all Apollo tanks are strong enough to lift with even when the tanks are full of liquid and the stainless steel frames make it simple to orient your tank wherever you require. 

With our unique design and built in ergonomic handles, Apollo is stronger and easy to carry around.

The Termowell is a hollow, food grade stainless steel tube, that is closed at the bottom and in which you can insert the temperatur probe of your temperatur controller. Controlling your fermentation temperature is key to achieving the best quality beer possible and in order to do so, you want to take temperature readings straight from inside the liquid.

Yes! We have called it Apollo Titan and it's current the cheapest stainless steel fermenter on the market that does pressure fermenting of up to 35psi. Titan has the same conical shape as our trademark Apollos with 3 additional 1.5" tri-clover openings for you to play with. Fittings you might be interested in, include a sightglass, a 90 degree elbow and of course a sanitary butterfly valve.

Just about any vessel can be a fermenter if you ferment something in it, but you’ll notice most commercial breweries have pronounced conical shapes at the base of their fermenting vessels. This is because after a few thousand years of commercial brewing it was noted that removing the yeast bed from underneath the fermenting beer helps to keep flavours cleaner, store better and reduce the chance of yeast autolysis (a.k.a Band-aid/medicinal flavours) in your beer. The cone at the base of your Apollo fermenter helps to concentrate the flocculated (dropped out) yeast and minimise the contact the yeast bed has with the beverage. In a unitank variety conical fermenter, the dropped yeast can be removed and harvested for repitching. In a closed bottom fermenter, the minimal yeast bed to liquid contact helps reduce the chance for the yeast bed to impart flavours into the beverage.

For Beer, absolutely. The right shape for fermenting beer is conical. A 60 degree angle is optimal just like we put on our Apollo fermenters. A wider angle and the yeast won’t slide into the cone. Conical makes yeast removal easier and liquid to yeast bed contact smaller.

An average brew size is 19L so that it fits perfectly in a regular corny keg or 20L if you use one of  our PET corny ball lock keg so a 30L fermenter will provide ample head space during fermentation and contain your nectar safely. We do recommend that you  use a spunding valve to increase both the quality of your fermentation and the safety of your equipment.

Pressure fermentation allows for the suppression of some yeast ester formations. This means that the esters that would have been produced at higher temperatures can be supressed so temperatures can be raised to speed the fermentation process. We feel that the sweet spot for LAGER (spelled LARGER on most homebrew forums) fermentation is somewhere around 15psi or 1bar of pressure to help the beer remain crisp and help suppress the two no no’s in crisp lager which are banana and clove esters!

Higher pressures can be damaging to the yeast’s cell walls.

Ale fermentation, in general, seeks to nurture ester production so by keeping the pressure low, around 8 to 10psi, you’ll have virtually no detectable difference in flavour unless you’ve got a palate as sensitive as a gas spectrometer. 

It only looks complicated because everything is included in the box and we wanted to cover everyone, from beginner all the way to experts. You don’t have to use all parts, you can use a regular airlock and ferment just like you would do in basic fermenter such as the bucket one or the tub one. We also have supporting videos on our youtube channel covering how to use your Apollo with delicious kit and kilo recipes!

Yes. Because you can carbonate in a pressure fermenter, your Keg King Apollo can serve the beverage you made if you hook it up to a tap after the beverage is finished. You can use any number of devices to get the beverage out including your tap system, picnic taps, pluto guns, or the simple and affordable Quickie poppet depressing sample tap.

Yes you can and with minimal additional gear. Our engineers have developed a counter pressure bottle filler that can be attached to any UltraTaps but they have also designed a very smart way to counter pressure bottle fill straight from any ball lock keg such as our 19L corny keg and since your fermenter uses ball posts on the lid, you can bottle straight from it using this attachment  and our UltraFill counter pressure bottle filler. We have a supporting video on our youtube channel showing you exactly how to use this equipment

Used correctly according to instructions and heeding all warnings your fermenter poses no danger. However like any vessel where there is pressure buildup one should exercise all due cautions and remain vigilant. Firstly we recommend that you always use a Spundy spunding valve even though very low pressure release PRVs (Pressure Relief Valves) are an option. Secondly make sure that the PRV which is there to prevent bursting is always clean and serviceable before using the equipment. This equipment should only be operated by responsible adults and whenever interacting or using it make sure that safety warning are not ignored. Familiarise yourself with the operation and ensure that children or minors are kept away from it. Ideally use the units with a jacket or in a fermenting chamber. Do not use the equipment when under the influence of alcohol or drugs. If moving the unit release pressure before doing so.

It is important that the PRV is not obstructed by anything from the lid and that it can be operated freely by lifting it up from its ring. Always use a Spundy spunding valve and be aware that any pressure over 18 psi is no longer beneficial to the fermentation and the quality of your beer.

PET is not an expensive material and the highly sophisticated manufacturing process is automated to a large degree and so we can achieve the lowest costs possible.

In most cases yes! Our 30L Apollo was specifically designed to fit in most fermentation fridges and measures only 75cm from top to bottom when sitting safely in its stand. A lot of customers have bought second hand, and sometimes brand new, KegMasters coupled with one of our temperature controllers where our Apollo fits perfectly even with our world’s smallest spunding valve Spundy.

Good question! With our pressure fermenters, you have the option to use our world's smallest spunding valve or ferment as normal under gravity and use an airlock. Your airlock will fit right in where the PRV screws in.

A unitank is the most versatile fermentation vessel in the brewery. It can do 4 things:

1. Ferment
2. Harvest Yeast
3. Carbonate
4. Serve your beverage

A pressure fermenter with a closed bottom (snub nose or kegmenter) can do 3 things:

1. Ferment
2. Carbonate
3. Serve your beverage

If you don’t plan on harvesting and repitching your yeast, you don’t need a Unitank. If you want to clean fewer parts and clean your tank on top of a Corny Cleaner Kit, you need a Snub Nose, close bottom fermenter.

If you want to use the yeast cake again after an initial fermentation you can, provided that your yeast bed is clean and essentially free of hop or break material. You’ll simply put your oxygenated wort into the fermenter at the pitching temp for the yeast.

First, congratulate yourself on getting Keg King products. Next, follow the assembly instructions in the included manual or by scanning the QR code on your box. This will open the product page on our website where you will also find assembly instructions as a digital file.

If your fermenter has been equipped with a variety of Pressure Relief Valves (PRV), you can select either a blue or purple PRV to control the gas pressure during fermentation. For a higher level of control and safety we would also recommend using our affordable Spundy spunding valve that will provide you with the ability to select the pressure you are fermenting under and see the pressure indicated on the gauge.

Always store your Apollo or any other PET fermenter/keg away from direct sunlight. Temperatures over 50 degrees Celsisus will cause PET to soften and deform. If you have an insulating jacket then use it to prevent accidental damage. Clean and rinse the unit before long term storage and leave it somewhere cool.

If you believe that you have damaged your PET fermenter, we recommend that you do not use it and contact our customer service team via email at info@keg-king.com.au. Please provide supporting photos and videos so that our experts can asses and assist. Worst case scenario, you can purchase a replacement tank here to keep brewing in one of the best and most reliable pressure fermenters on the market.

With our Apollo's trademark wide lid, cleaning your fermenter has never been easier! With vessels with smaller necks, these are still easily cleaned by soaking or using a Corny Cleaner. Most brewers will first rinse out the leftover trub and yeasts elements before using one of our corny keg clearner kits  with a simple 3 step process:

1. Step 1: Use our ABC Brewery Cleaner and some warm water (no more than 40 degrees Celsius) and recirculate for 20 minutes;
2. Step 2: Rinse out with warm water (no more than 40 degrees Celsius);
3. Step 3: Sanitise using clean cold water and the recommended amount of our Atomic 15 sanitiser. All parts other than the tank are also dishwasher safe! Very convenient way to clean with minimum effort.

Alternatively, if you do not have one of our corny keg clearner kits, you can soak your Apollo in ABC brewery cleaner for 15mins and use a soft cloth to gently wipe the inside before rinsing it and sanitising it.

Always pressure check before you begin to use your fermenter. Test with water, never with beer! Fill your fermenter with water leaving 20% headspace. Attach your gas cylinder and push in a small amount of pressure up to around 10psi. Using foaming sanitiser spray, check the joins on the equipment to identify where your leak is coming from. Often, it is just a part not tightened properly, a missing or damaged o-ring seal or a connection that isn’t properly joined. Identify where your issue is coming from and then you can make adjustments. Most of our fermenters will get a proper seal when assembled just finger tight. If tools are required, do not overtighten especially in the case of stainless steel to plastic connections or you will likely break or damage the plastic parts.

THE MOST SANITARY WAY USING A GAS CYLINDER

Oxygen free/closed transfer is one of the biggest benefits of pressure fermenting in an Apollo. Closed transfer is the most sanitary, low-risk way to move your beverage from the fermenter to the keg without exposing the beverage to the atmosphere. Done properly, you will also be able to maintain the carbonation you’ve achieved in the fermenter. You’ll need: A keg, a liquid-to-liquid ball lock transfer line, a spunding valve, a spray bottle of sanitiser, gas cylinder and regulator with a gas line running to a grey gas disconnect. *Optional: a carbonation and line cleaning cap.

1. Step 1. Clean, rinse and sanitise your keg. In the sanitising step, ensure you fill your keg up completely with sanitiser and then evacuate the sanitiser from the keg using CO2 either from your gas cylinder set to 10psi or from a gas harvesting link from your spunding valve during fermentation. This will leave you with a clean, sanitised keg that is free of oxygen. You can purge the keg with additional CO2 using the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) in the keg’s lid while the keg is still connected to your gas cylinder. This will assist in removing any trace O2 remaining in the keg. Keep the pressure in the keg at 10psi and chill the keg for 20 to 30min. It’s important to ensure the walls of your keg are cool or cold. Warm kegs will cause excessive foaming in the transferring beer.
2. Step 2. Clean, rinse and sanitise your liquid-to-liquid ball lock transfer line. Evacuate the sanitiser from the transfer line using CO2. This can be accomplished by placing one liquid disconnect onto your empty pressurised keg and the other onto either another keg with no pressure. Alternatively, you can hook up one liquid disconnect to your empty pressurised keg and connect a carbonation and line cleaning cap on the other liquid disconnect to drain the transfer line of sanitiser, replacing the liquid with CO2.
3. Step 3. Remove the spunding valve from your fermenter’s gas post. Close the spunding valve’s adjustable valve stem completely. Spray the empty, sanitised, pressurised keg’s gas post with sanitiser. Now attach the spunding valve onto the gas post of the keg.
4. Step 4. Put the grey gas disconnect from your gas regulator’s gas line onto the notched ‘gas in’ post on your pressure fermenter, first ensuring you are at 10psi on your regulator’s output pressure.
5. Step 5. Spray your fermenter’s liquid out post with sanitiser. Connect one liquid ball lock disconnect from your sanitised liquid-to-liquid transfer line onto the fermenter’s liquid out post.
6. Step 6. Spray your clean, sanitised, pressurised keg’s liquid out post with sanitiser. Connect the other liquid ball lock disconnect from your sanitised liquid-to-liquid transfer line onto the keg’s liquid out post.
7. Step 7. With the fermenter at 10psi and the keg at 10psi, liquid will not flow to the keg. To begin the flow you can carefully bring the pressure on your gas regulator to 12psi. Liquid will begin to move to the keg and down the keg’s dip tube filling slowly.
8. Step 8. As the keg fills, the pressure in the keg’s headspace will increase and slow the liquid. To balance this, open the spunding valve’s adjustable valve stem and keep a pressure differential -2 to -5psi between the fermenter and the keg. If your fermenter is at 12psi, keep your keg at 10psi or as low as 7psi. This will minimise foaming and carbonation loss during the fill. Watch the volume indicator on your fermenter to keep track of the volume moving over to the keg.
9. Step 9. After the keg is full, remove the liquid transfer line from the keg post and remove the spunding valve from the gas post. Put the keg in the fridge and top up to 10psi of pressure. If you carbonated in the fermenter, you can now hook up your keg to your draught system and keep it at 10psi to 12psi for short draw systems like kegerators and Keg freezers. The beverage will settle and become more clear in the keg over time. Refer to our carbonation chart to see the proper pressures and temperatures for achieving the CO2 volumes that are right for your beverage.

How is the method described here better than the CLOSED LOOP TRANSFER method?

While closed loop transfers are great for brewers who want to save a bit of money on CO2 gas, they are less sanitary. The cleanest, most sanitary way to move beer and beverages will always be in one direction as described in the steps provided here. Though only slim, the Closed Loop Transfer method still brings a risk of contamination because it is returning gas from the keg back to the fermenter.

PET is a by-product of the process to make fuel for vehicles. So as long as we have vehicles with internal combustion engines this source of plastic is plentiful and what better use than to make it into beverage storage and fermenting equipment. Luckily it does not affect taste and has another very desirable attribute of being 100% recyclable. This makes our entire range of PET, fermenters and King Kegs, better for the environment.

Our fermenters and our King Keg units are all produced in our two manufacturing plant located in Springvale on the outskirts of Melbourne. Keg King is the only company in the Southern Hemisphere which has the CYPET K53 machines to make these units. It’s a patented process which makes the vessel without reheating the PET which is the case with inferior products. Keg King pioneered the PET pressure fermenters and our design team continues to improve them and their accessories.

PET can be shredded and pelletised with the appropriate machinery. There is a large plant under construction in the Albury Wodonga region which helps to make it a cycle where the output can be converted back into new product.